Miguel Sánchez
PHOTOS RUTA66: UNAI ONA
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MOVIES, MASSES AND PIGS. FROM CARTHAGE TO BAXTER
On Route66 you don't have to search too much to feel like you are in a motor museum. The most diverse cars come out to meet you when you least expect it. In fact, sometimes they are waiting for you in the motel's own parking lot. Thus began the third day of this American journey, with a Chevrolet el Camino on the door of the room. It is undoubtedly one of the best ways to start a day of driving on Route 66.
And this Chevrolet is more American than apple pie. A curious hybrid between coupe and pick-up born under the idea of having a car for "Go to church on Sundays and take the pigs to the fair on Monday". Interestingly, the first "utility coupe" It was manufactured by Ford's Australian division. But don't see the success of these bodies in the interior of the United States! And that's where we're going to go today: Oklahoma awaits us.
We left Carthage heading to Kansas. This state is the one with the least stretch on Route 66 -only 21 kms- but it still has interesting stops. The first is in Galena. We got there after leaving Web City and Joplin in Missouri behind. As soon as we enter, we walk through a street with semi-abandoned buildings where it is not difficult to feel good as an outlaw ... Or as the victim of one of them. However, reaching the end of the street everything turns into a nice animated film.
You are going to see drawings on the big screen in three dimensions, but don't worry, nobody has thrown you out "Droja in the cola-cao" you are not in Who cheated on roger rabbit? You are in Cars on the Route (119 N Main St.). And what you have in front of you is the authentic 1951 pickup that inspired the Cars Town Mater character. A very photogenic place, especially if you go with the girls in the back seats. (Do you remember of this adaptation What did we see in Alicante? 😉
After this good portion of classics with their rust point, we go for the trains. These were indispensable to the growth of Galena in its time of mining splendor, harboring coal and Hobos armies in equal measure. In the old Missouri-Kansas-Texas railroad depot is the Galena Mining & Historical Museum (319 W 7th st). A perfect place to get into the history of the place before continuing on the route.
We continue towards riverton to see the picturesque Nelson's Riverton Store (7109 KS-66). One of the many road establishments on Route 66, but with the peculiarity of having hardly received any touch-ups since 1925. In the following town, Baxter springs, we ran into the first sale of the day at the entrance. It is the Nowlings Auto Sales (418 Military Ave), which has a couple of vans with patina at the entrance as a declaration of intent.
Just a kilometer away is the Kansas Route 66 Visitors Center (940 Military Ave). In 2005 the Baxter Historical Society restored the building to its original appearance. One of the service stations in the best condition of the entire Route 66. We recommend you visit this place run by correct history buffs. Simple people who wear ties under their jumpers because what comes next ... is a double ration of wholesale crime.
A CLEAN SHOT: JESSE JAMES, BONNIE & CLYDE AND RUSTY TRUCKS
It's amazing how much fascination the bad guys can have. But even more so when they are made of flesh and blood. Without a doubt, this is a social phenomenon that should be approached from psychology. What is this fascination around evil? Is it that we all carry inside a little genocide fighting to get out? So easily can you let go of the piston and become a kind of Kurtz in 'The Heart of Darkness'?
Beyond brainy debates about the human condition, the truth is that popular tradition has always sung of thieves. From The ticks with its "You are El Vaquilla, happy bandit" but also John Lee Hooker with the "I'm bad like Jesse James" music has tons of praise for crime. Something similar happens with cars. While the SEAT 124 has been inevitably attached to the image of the kinky, el Ford V8 It is the symbol of the bank robber in the United States.
Today all this seems to us an interesting cultural phenomenon. But if we can take it that way, it is because, fortunately, those criminals are already part of the past. The best example of this can be seen in the Baxter Springs Cafe on the Route (1101 Military Ave). This is where one of the banks robbed by Jesse James's gang was housed, but nowadays it is a nice cafeteria where you can dock… Donuts. Very good indeed.
The gang here stole $ 2.900 from the period in 1876. The following year the bank failed, and at six a treacherous crony shot James in the back. To date, there are 37 film adaptations of his life. One of many criminal biographies starring outlaws from the former ranks of the Confederate army.
With the violent history of the place still whistling in our heads we head to the Oklahoma's first town on Route 66, Commerce. There we ran into the Allen's Conoco Fillin'Station (101 S Main St). According to legend, the gunmen couple Bonnie & Clyde refueled here. And it may be, because police officer Cal Campbell was killed just half a mile away. At this point his would be riding a Ford V800. The same one for which Bonnie Parker sent a congratulatory letter to Henry Ford himself.
However, that has been like a cursed car, since it is usually remembered to be stitched to bullets. By the way, in the place there is a frame of Ford Model T with inscriptions in Catalan. Things of globalization. After so much crime his thing is to regain strength in the Dairy King ice cream parlor. It is located right in front of the old gas station. Of course, don't play a Bonnie & Clyde or Jesse James joke because here even a nice grocer can have a cutout under the counter.
As a last stop in Commerce we recommend Callahan's Customs (800 S Mickey Mantle). In this small restoration workshop you can see how they work on various vans, Mustangs and even an Opel GT. However, the most curious and suitable for the outlaw scene that we have just visited is the rusty International Haverster S-160 Series truck. A fifties brown beast with a clean bullet hole in the windshield. Another of the perfect vehicles to take Route50!
MIAMI. THE DARK REVERSE OF THE AMERICAN ENGINE
America has been built on bullets and wheels. First during the wagon expansion to the West, and then with the huge residential areas. With so much distance and so much "Here for there" it is normal that the homeland of fast food is this. In this sense, not only McDonald's and Burger King are the ones that have divided the business. For decades, dozens of smaller chains survived, emerging from the heat of roads such as Route 66.
One of them was Kuku Burger. Despite the fact that many consider their hamburger the best on Route 66, today there is only one place left of the 200 that the company had. This is the establishment located at 915 S Main St in Miami. We would give you a review about the food, but the day that The Escudería passed by the owner suffered health problems and the place was closed.
This Miami of Oklahoma is a curious city of about 14.000 inhabitants. Its wide and almost deserted streets look like a painting of Edward Hopper. Huge buildings almost lifeless, practically nowhere you can call "city center" with a notable influx of pedestrians, avenues drawn in perfect geometry ... It is curious to take a tour of it to see the dark reverse of American motor culture. Some cities designed to move exclusively by car. Its deserted residential areas are the antipodes of European urbanism. It gives food for thought.
As long as you remember the lively center of any Mediterranean town, it's okay to head to the Vintage Iron & Motorcycle Museum (128 S Main St). Of course, always attentive to what you may find along the way. May appear surprises like the restoration garage located at Recovery Room-301 N Main St. At his door we saw a Subaru 360. This icon of the small utility vehicles of the Japanese postwar period is not, at all, one of the cars that you expect on Route66. But that's why it's great to see it here. In the 66 the passion for motoring encompasses all types of vehicles!
Although The Escudería is a magazine for people on four wheels, the truth is that it is impossible not to fall for the charm of certain motorcycles. In the Vintage Iron & Motorcycle Museum they have several. Among them a 1917 Harley Davidson, a 1949 AJC -curiously very similar to the typical Royal Enfield currently manufactured in India- and a 1957 Ariel Red Hunter. A mythical motorcycle for the Birmingham house, since its enormous commercial success made it possible for it to absorb Triumph.
If you have not spent too much time with the motorcycles we recommend that you go to a local doctor to get the anti-tetanus. Why? Well, to go safely to the delicious pile of rust that is 10991 of US-69. Just before leaving Miami is this tremendous pile of trucks and pick-ups with free access. What are they doing there? Is this the closest thing to the image of the Apocalypse? We don't know, but it's worth going through.
After advancing about 25 kilometers we reached Evening. Like so many other towns on Route 66, the ring road has turned the place into a scene of terror. Seriously. It's one of those half-abandoned places where there's a tense calm where, if a guy suddenly comes out, you think he's going to lynch you. Have you seen 'No Country for Old Men'? Well, something like that. In the style of character played by Barden under the direction of the great Coen brothers. A perfect place for the deranged and psychopaths.
But don't worry, because the person responsible for the Station Packards (12 S 1st st) she is lovely. In counterpoint to the surroundings, Marlin Carpenter welcomes you with coffee, soft drinks and the phrase "You are at your house". The museum is located within the first 24-hour station on Route 66, and has 18 Packards among other classics. One of them is a 1935 DeSoto. This one mounts a beautiful winged ornament on the grille, although not that he made the brand famous.
Founded in 1928 as a subsidiary of Chrysler, DeSoto It was named after the Spanish conqueror Hernando de Soto. For this reason, many of its 2 million automobiles mounted on their hoods a bust of the 2nd Lieutenant of the Governor General of Cuzco, 2nd Governor of Cuba and Third Adelantado of Florida. Eye, with its pointed morion helmet and all. In short, being run over by a DeSoto is like being run over by the Spanish Empire. Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!
It looks like A large part of the collection has just been sold after the death in 2016 of the museum's founder and his wife, David Kane and Sylvie. So you will have to hurry if you want to see it, as well as contact Marlin to open it for you. However, the one that will remain open without problems is our next stop on Route 66. A museum that you will have to go to with an open mind if you are a purist of the classics in its original state.
A MUSEUM FOR CUSTOM CULTURE
There are two countries that stand out for vehicle customization. Well, including Japan we would say there are three. But for now we are going to stay in the West. More recently, Germany in the 90s emerged with the tuning phenomenon. Bright colors, neons, wearing a tracksuit even though you haven't played sports since Physical Education classes at school… You know. Parkineo's paradise and Madrid-Valencia in less than three hours. Uh-ah!
Following the trail of gel - from the greasers to the bakalas, these urban tribes usually carry an oil well on their heads - we ended up in the United States. It was there that custom culture was born in the 50s. The way in which much of the youth of the moment channeled their adrenaline cravings by reaching into their Chevy and Ford. Gimmicked engines, lowered suspensions, people falling off the cliff ... The birth of the Hot Rod aesthetic.
Inevitably, all that infected the world of entertainment. Also to a good number of fans with restless wallets. This is how professional customizers were born. One of the most characteristic phenomena of the North American engine, and of which Darryl starbird is one of its great characters. During the 50s and 60s he was one of the most famous, conceiving not a few models touched by the futuristic fever of the moment.
Many of them are in the National Rod & Custom Car Hall (55251 E OK-85A). A place where this designer is paid tribute with a good selection of models. We are not going to lie to you. The truth is that some are "Coffee for the very coffee growers". When we get into space domes -without any security arch- and wide ranges of colors to blind you… You have to like this a lot. However, there are also more balanced creations.
El 1957 Cadillac nicknamed The Shark impresses, as well as a huge Oldsmobile Toronado from the first series topped with a “flowWorthy of Marvin Gaye himself. Impossible not to want to take a ride on it ringing Let's Get it On background. We sincerely recommend that you do not stop stopping at this museum. At the end of the day, if you are doing Route 66 it is because you are interested in the American motor culture. And inside her characters like Darryl Starbird or George Barris are key.
By the way, one of the best things about this unique museum is its close treatment. It is closed on Tuesdays, but still passing there on a day off, Starbird's wife opened the rooms with a contagious passion. You can contact them before the visit through their web page. Worth.
MEN IN LOVE IN PLACES WHERE THE SEA IS NOT POSSIBLE
Returning to Route66 we are surprised by a new abandoned place when passing through wine. This time it is about thirty classics abandoned in an old gas station (519 S Wilson St). A true madness that makes you want to rescue one of its protagonists. Very interesting the well preserved Mercedes 219 Ponton in the middle of so much rust "Made in America".
With about 20 versions the Pontons were the first range of sedans produced by Mercedes after World War II. His reputation is to be extremely reliable, and not only in his painting. It is a most interesting car. For now we stop at the Hi-Way Cafe (437918 US-60) and, after regaining our strength, we continued towards Chelsea.
There we ran into him Ed Galloway's Totem Pole Park (21300 OK-28 A). Built between 1937 and 1948, this curious park is due to its creator's veneration for Native American culture. Veneration that led him to raise the largest totem in the world, 27 meters high and 9 wide. A mass decorated with about 200 images in the indigenous pictorial style.
Obviously it is not an authentic sample of indigenous culture, but Indian casinos on some reservations neither are they a perfect tribute to ancient tribal groups. In a world where it is not easy to draw the line between winners and losers, between those from here and those from there, perhaps the most interesting thing is to enjoy the mixes. Today Ed Galloway's Totem Pole Park is managed by the Rogers County Historical Society. You can also barbecue in it, so it is a good place to stop and eat in the American style.
With the vision of the old Chelsea Motel sign (110 E 1st st) we said goodbye to Chelsea heading to Catoosa. This is one of the longest stretches of Route 66 with no stops of interest. 50 kilometers where you can relax behind the wheel thanks to a selection with the best of the 81 albums published by Willie Nelson. Its soft country strumming the strings of the old trigger is the best of the genre, along with albums like Harvest by Neil Young. Do not forget about them before you go to Route 66.
When you get to Catoosa you are like in Valdepeñas. In a place where it is impossible to imagine the sea. However, the biggest attraction of the place is an immense whale built some 50 years ago by Hugh Davis. This man in love conceived it as an anniversary gift for Zelta, his wife. Around the whale there is a park that the couple's daughter now cares for. Right across the street you can see the Arrowood Trading Post (2700 N Old Hwy 66). One of the old commercial establishments of the 66.
TULSA. THE PLACE WHERE ROUTE66 WAS BORN
Exploring the interior of Catoosa we will arrive at Correl Museum (19934 E Pine St). Quiet because there are cars. But first we cannot stop looking at some other things. From a mummified cat to old whiskey bottles to belt buckles this place is a curious heap of memories. Anyway, what stands out the most is the collection of classic cars kept in its own pavilion.
If you like pre-war cars you can't miss it. Rolls-Royce from the 30s, huge movie-style Packards shot in Al Capone's Chicago ... But especially the curious 1902 Oldsmobile or 1919 Franklin in aluminum. One of the most representative vehicles of the brand that made one of its hallmarks to lighten the weight. The use of this material in their luxury cars was one of the innovations of John wilkinson. To the point that at the time you had the Franklin Automobile Company as the largest aluminum claimant in the world.
Not for nothing was it the first to introduce aluminum pistons in 1915. It was also a pioneer in the use of four-cylinder engines in 1902 or six-cylinder engines in 1905. In short, a key company in the development of modern automotive. Nor can you stop taking a look at the steam Locomobile from 1899. Possibly one of the last steam cars of the brand, before it was switched to combustion in 1902 with excellent results. Although its steam engines had not a very good reputation ... The move to combustion engines made Locomobile one of the most reliable brands at the time. It was not for nothing that it was advertised as "The best car in America."
Speaking of cars, it is time to return to ours to head to Tulsa, the city where Route66 was really born. And it is that here was the Highway 66 Association, which was the work of the businessman Cyrus Avery. Linked to the oil and livestock businesses, Avery was obsessed with building infrastructure for decades. In fact, he entered the administration for this reason, putting such an effort that it has gone down in history as the father of Ruta66.
Decades later, he is still recognized as such, so we recommend a visit to his grave at Rose Hill Cemetery to pay respects. The grave is really low-key, but after a short walk you will be able to find it with the help of some photographs. If you are not looking for graves, you can also go to the Cyrys Avery Centennial Plaza. Here Avery himself is depicted as the driver of a Ford Model T about to collide with two horses. A daunting sculptural ensemble called "East Meets West", where the transit from carriages to automobiles is reflected.
And well, since before we talked about music for Ruta66, now we are going to make another recommendation. It is not for nothing that we are in the cradle of Tulsa Sound. That smooth mix of country, rock, and boggy blues that you have in JJ. stall its greatest exponent. The truth is that it fits us wonderfully with our traveling purpose, because This music seems made to drive across the vast American prairies.
Passing through the city we can see the giant sign of the Oasis Hotel (9303 E 11th St), the Desert Hills Motel (4323, 5220 E 11th St) and the small old Rossi Brothers gas station (3501 Rte 66). Otherwise it is a city of about 450.000 inhabitants with a good cultural life and extensive parks. Featured in several listings about cities with good quality of life. A civilized and open space where you can live in peace. Yes indeed, It was also an important business center called for decades the Petroleum Capital of the World.. Not surprisingly, on the city's coat of arms you can see a drilling tower.
Along with this today another symbol of oil in Tulsa. Its about Giant of the Golden Driller (Tulsa Expo Center, 4145 E 21st st). Built in 1952 for the International Petroleum Expo, the Fort Worth Mid-Continent Supply Company donated the statue to the city. The legend at his feet could not be more typical of the resolute American character. "Dedicated to the men of the oil industry who, by their vision and audacity, have created a better life for Humanity out of God's abundance."
This inevitably reminds us of Wells of Ambition. The film by the disturbing Paul Thomas Anderson in which wondering who is the bad guy and who is the good guy is useless. One of the best films so far in the XNUMXst century. Essential to create an environment for yourself before crossing - even sideways - the oil regions of the southern United States. Is it the Giant of this new century? Well, they are absolutely complementary.
Thinking about how good an actor Daniel Ley-Lewis is, we return to Ruta66. 22 kilometers away awaits us sapulpa with its Route66 Auto Museum (13 Sahoma Lake Rd). It has about 30 vehicles and, although you have to deviate a bit, we fully recommend it. There are a couple of slightly misplaced Jaguars, but otherwise it is a good sample of the American engine.
From a gorgeous red Packard V6 convertible to musclecars like the Pontiac GTO. We also find a Ford Thunderbird from the first and legendary 1955 series, in contrast to a rabid racing Maserati.
If you want more, in the area you can also visit the Waite Phillips-Barnsdall Filling Station Museum (26 E Lee Ave) and the Sapulpa Fire Museum (124 E Lee Ave). Of course, to see a truly unique and particular museum... You still have about 120 kilometers to travel.
JHON HAS A MUSEUM THAT YOU ENTER WITH THE HORN
For the next 80 kilometers we will pass through Stroud and Chandler. In the first place, the highlight is the sign for the Skyliner Motel (717 W Main St). Another of the many memories of that time when Route 66 was the "Main street of America". Already in Chandler We find a curious story about the constant desire for conservation that we experience throughout the trip. There is a true belonging to Route66! Historical societies, a multitude of small museums, collectors who open their doors to the public ... The children of the Route strive to preserve their memory.
One of them is Bill fernau, which bought in 1999 the old Phillips 66 Station (701 Manvel Ave). The man has been rebuilding the site based on original Phillips company blueprints for almost 20 years, and he plans to make it operational again! Also adding a repair shop. Without a doubt these people deserve all the recognition. Also, it is a privilege to be able to chat with them for a while. After catching on with Bill's passion, we set off for Warwick. There we find the Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum (336992 OK-66).
Today it is a motorcycle museum, but in times it was one of the first stations on the entire Route 66 to have a quick repair shop. Of course it is a clear inspiration for the case that we have seen previously. But we are heading to another "Artisan of the 66". After advancing another 40 kilometers we reached John Hardgrove's house (OK County 66 - John's Place 13441 E Old Hwy 66). About a kilometer and a half before reaching Arcadia and just past the ruins of a house on a curve to the right.
And yes, you read that right. No museum ... No historical society ... Nothing of the kind. We are talking about a private house. Obviously he doesn't have a schedule as such, so you have to cross your fingers for John to be there. Forget about the uncomfortable summer queues at the Prado Museum, here you enter with the horn. You touch it, and if Mr. Hardgrove is around, he'll be delighted to greet you. An entire experience!
It really is not to be missed. Throughout the rooms that he himself is teaching, you can see a 50's style bar, a multitude of motor memorabilia and, above all, several classics open on the channel that he is working on. Talking to cylinder enthusiasts like John is spectacular. Right there he can tell you how he is working on a Ford from the 30s. Surrounded by engine parts and tools of all kinds, this is heaven for any fan of classic car restoration.
Even if you run the risk of entertaining yourself too much, it is one of those places where you can stop, yes or yes. After all, Ruta66 is still something alive thanks to this type of people. If you don't stop to meet them… It's as if you go to a restaurant just to see the menu.
THE HAZARDS (CULINARY AND WEATHER) OF ROUTE66
Another key point in Arcadia is the Round Barn (107 OK-66). This old built barn has all the charm of the American interior. In addition, its roof collapsed in 1988 but a team of volunteers rebuilt it in just 4 years. Of course, do not think that in this town everything is happiness and good camaraderie.
Do you want to make your stomach suffer? You can. Because in the Arcadia Pops (660 Ok-66) you have the possibility to try unparalleled filthy nasty things. Those youthful meals when you get home at dawn will be healthy meals next to the chocolate-flavored soda with bacon. In a boast of "Wherever you go, do what you see" our photographer Unai Ona dared with the bottle. Fortunately for his arteries and intestines, it was left unfinished.
However, when you find yourself in the middle of Alley of the Tornados the biggest danger is not a hypercaloric soda. In this area between Tulsa and Oklahoma City you can find really impressive storms. They can appear suddenly, causing the sky to plummet overhead with a waterfall that prevents you from seeing just beyond the nose of your car. This is exactly what happened to our intrepid photographer.
In such a situation it is best to pull off the interstate and stop somewhere safe and covered. Gusts of air make billboards fly, so imagine what it's like to drive under these circumstances. In fact, we recommend that you wait calmly until the end of the storm. If you don't, you can end up - real story - by accident in the parking lot of a penitentiary, from which the police will ask you to leave with fresh wind.
Finally every storm passes, the sun rises and you end up at the expected motel. The stage ended having bypassed Oklahoma City all the way to Clinton. We are already in the South of the United States, looking for the western path to the ever promising California.
