Miguel Sánchez
PHOTOS RUTA66 (2ND DELIVERY): UNAI ONA
Read the first installment clicking here →
There are at least three Hamels in the world. One is in South Australia; the Marines have a training ground there. Another is in France; one of the last battles of the First World War was fought there. Almost 3500 men died led by two commanders of the australian corps. A melee of nationalities in which everyone bled and the Germans lost.
The last one is in Illinois and, a priori, it has known nothing but calm and tranquility. Thanks to the fact that Route66 passes through the town, it has a certain connection with the world. In his Weezy's cafeteria you can breathe a fifties atmosphere and glances between locals and passersby. There is Bud Light beer at a good price, motorcycles parked outside the door and the quiet atmosphere of a place where the 2010 census only showed 816 people.
We know from the racial obsessions of the US Census Bureau that an Asian and a Pacific Islander live here. How did they get to this secluded corner of deep America? We don't know, although we suspect that Route 66 may be part of the answer. After all, its asphalt has given shelter to not a few "brothers of the road" Heading to it is not known where fleeing from it is not quite known what.
These places where you can easily imagine the children of The People of the Damned they have a disturbing point. And right there is where we leave our photographer Unai Ona at the end of the first installment of the trip that in La Escudería we are doing along Route 66. But don't worry, for now neither his eyes light up nor does he have telepathic abilities. We continue the journey!
RABBITS, GIANTS AND UFOs
Early in the day the Historic Old 66 is calm. With this stamp one casts the imagination to fly and hopes to see a Cadillac appear languidly on the horizon. However, the first stop of this second installment is going to feature the VW Golf. Well, we'd better say Rabbit ...
And this is the name under which the “car of cars” from 1975 to 1984 in the United States and Canada. The reason? Well, it is not entirely clear ... But with the Beetle as the most obvious antecedent, everything points to the fact of continuing with the zoological names.
As in Europe, this utility aroused not a few passions, creating a legion of fans among which is Rich, owner of the Henry Rabbit Ranch (1107 Historic Old 66. Staunton).
In addition to a curious stack of VW Rabbit, the place houses trucks and a great concentration of objects related to the moments of splendor of Route66. It is worth stopping and then continuing to the Pink Elephant Antique Mall (908 Veterans Memorial. Staunton). In this place with the appearance of a trail there are from advertising giants to a kind of mobile home with the appearance of a UFO, the result of the futuristic aesthetics of the 50s.
AGAINST FIRE AND TORNADO: COUNTRY CLASSIC CARS
Unless you arrive on the Day of the Germans - most of the inhabitants of the place descend from Germanic settlers who arrived here in the mid-XNUMXth century- Staunton it does not differ from many other places crossed by Route 66. However, it is one of the must-see stops for any car lover. Why? Well for the Country Classic Cars. The largest purchase and sale establishment throughout the entire 66.
A business with 7 pavilions and hundreds of classics available to the customer. Something like a huge classic American motor show but open almost every day of the year. An industry that in the United States appears to be in good health; In the approximately two hours of visit, they downloaded three trailers full of classics. And that is not to mention that although the business has suffered two recent misfortunes, the idea of closing has not been an option.
In August 2017, a fire burned a large part of the facilities and not a few cars, to which is added the tornado that passed over them at the beginning of 2018. Even so Country Classic Cars continues to open offering about 650 cars in catalog. Some as strange as a 1951 Nash Ambassadore Sedan. The tremendous family carráncano inspired by the 1935 Stout Scarab and that, over the years, is the most hesitant for any band on tour.
"CLANG, CLANG, CLANG WENT THE TROLLEY"
On the way to St. Louis, one imagines singing on top of a lively streetcar along Meet Me in St.Louis. Whether you visualize yourself with ties and braids or not, we leave it to the reader's liking. Dresses apart, We are leaving behind the prairies of Illinois to enter Missouri. Two states separated by one of the emblems of the Midwest and South of the United States: the Mississippi River.
To cross it, we opted for one of the most mythical bridges in the entire area: the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge. This is one of the longest metal bridges in the country. And of metal bridges ... the United States understands. Through them and their train tracks the national economic development has been written, not to mention the symbolism of places like Edmund Pettus Bridge. The proof that in politics there is sometimes nothing as thunderous as silence. Dr. King knew it.
Now there is a new Old Chain of Rocks Bridge, but the old one is not only walkable, it is also the longest pedestrian bridge in the world. Until its closure to traffic in 1970, it housed part of Route 66, and now has been our first contact with the state of Missouri. With the vision of the immense Getaway Arch -192 meters high and 200 wide- we enter St Louis, birthplace of a curious fully American mechanical monstrosity ...
A CAR THAT CRUSHES CARS? THE INVENTION OF GOOD BOB
Yes, just as there are people who kill people, there are cars that smash cars. If in ancient Rome the gratuitous murder was enthroned to the category of spectacle with the fights of gladiators ... In this new Rome that is the United States they will be amazed to see spectacles of bigfoots smashing the unfortunate cars under their wheels. Think that, as beast as it may seem, it is still an advance compared to what happened in the Colosseum.
Curiously, this all started in St. Louis. Specifically when in 1975 Bob Chandler built the first bigfoot based on a four-wheel drive Ford F-250 pickup. With no small skill he altered the axles of his Ford until he managed to incorporate truck tires, in addition to making the rear one have a steering mechanism. This is how the first 4x4x4 was born: four driving wheels and four steering wheels.
Although Americans like big cars, the bigfoot thing was too much even for them. Obviously for the day to day this type of vehicle did not prosper. But when Chandler started crushing junkyards… Show! In the United States these exhibits have become part of popular culture, radiating to the rest of the world with such force that today you can see them even in the lost towns of Castilla-La Mancha. Globalization at full throttle.
Several of the early bigfoot are exposed in a Hazelwood neighborhood business: Bigfoot Monster Truck Racing Team. A good stop to fully immerse yourself in this subculture of the North American motor.
HYMAN LTD. CLIMBING TO THE FIRST DIVISION OF THE CLASSICS
After doing the beast without measure you have to calm down. Bigfoot are something of the most American, and although we are travelers who are defenders of the "Wherever you go, do what you see"… The truth is that it is time to go in search of the most refined classics in the city. And believe us, there are.
By appointment for the visit you can access Hyman LTD (2310 Chaffe Dr). One-of-one models, very rare limited production units, an impressive selection of Europeans, spectacular Pierce Arrow, quite a few strange pieces from the early XNUMXth century… Well, to say that just at the moment of accessing the facilities they were preparing a Peugeot 402 Darl'Mat to take it to Pebble Beach we already realize the level.
simply arrogant more than 200 cars in stock, among which you suddenly run into unicorns like the Cadillac Die Valkyrie. Characterized by a peaked front out of the imagination of the same designer as the Wienermobile, this prototype was conceived in the 50s as a kind of Lincoln Continental Mark II signed by Cadillac. For this, they took as a basis a Series 60 Special from 1960 equipped with a 8-liter V5 and 4CV. Tremendous.
The truth is that in Hyman they seem to bet on oddities, making your head explode at every step when you discover something even weirder. A George Irat Model A? Well why not, of course. A rather rare specimen of the French company active between 1921 and 1953. One of only five Ferrari 365 GTB Daytona NARTs made? Of course, there is no shortage of coffee cups for the very coffee growers.
And it is that this Ferrari is a story for seasoned Ferraristas. Of course, as long as they accept strange versions that did not come from within the walls of Maranello. Commissioned in 1971 by North American Ferrari importer Luigi Chinetti, Ferrari NARTs are based on the 365 GTB / 4 Daytona for assembling bodies designed by Giovanni Michelotti himself. Because, although there are only 5, each NART is a unique piece.
At least two went straight to the competition in coupe form, while we have located two other spyder versions of which this is one of them. Continuing with more rarities we also saw in Hyman the unique Bentley S2 Wendler. A private order to which they encasqueban the headlights of a Mercedes W112 and that could well be the first predecessor of the current SUV of the brand.
In passing they assault a Lancia Aprilia Pininfarina Convertible, a unit of the ill-fated and curious kaiser darrin -too European for America too American for Europe-, imposing Duesenberg, Rolls… Seriously, it is really impressive. In addition to being one of the most celebrated dealers of classics in the US This St. Louis company is a mandatory stop on Route 66.
It is true that it is not a museum, and therefore you will have to invent something to be able to enter under the guidance of a person in charge but… It is worth trying the entrance.
BOWLING, MORE CLASSIC AND SPACE TRAINS
El St. Louis Car Museum & Sales (1575 Woodson Rd) is another of the recommended places in the city. The first because it is an old bowling alley. There are really few sports with a bowling narrative. Well there is boxing, cycling, the marathon, Le Mans, some F1 circuits, billiards, drifters ... But the truth is that if you want to take the pulse of which places few places are more suitable than a neighborhood bowling alley with cheap beer
The Flamingo Bowl is right in the center (1117 Washington Ave), and although we doubt that you can find Jesus from The Big Lebowski… Surely you will be able to blend in well with one of the most celebrated national customs. Bowling aside, let's go back to St Louis Car Museum & Sales. Opened in 1994 by its owner Joe Scott, here you can see a good selection of classics along with objects related to Route66. Neons, signs, fountains ... More than a business, it really does look like a museum.
Although for museum the National Museum of Transportation (2933 Barrett Station Rd). A curious compilation of trains among which stands out a Aerotrain of the General Motors Electro-Motive Division. Another example of industrial design in which to see how the 50s were dominated by a space euphoria in which even the trains seemed to be heading to Mars. By the way, there is a good room for classic American cars.
Leaving St Louis we resume the road on the I44, which runs parallel to the old Route66. Going this way simplifies the trip but forces us to be attentive to the indications given by the signs if we want to see curious enclaves located in the by-passed towns.
And so we continue until… Cuba. And no, it is not that we are liking American classics so much that we have decided to go to the Caribbean island ...
We are still in Missouri.
CRUNCHY GRASSHOPPER AND GRAPES OF ANGER
Arriving in Cuba the Wagon Wheel Motel Cafe & Station (901 East Washington Street) makes us stop to inspect. It is an accommodation opened in 1936 and is still in use! 5 kilometers to the west we sighted The Red Rocker (5957 State Hwy ZZ). The sighting is literal because it is impossible not to look at what is seen from afar: the largest rocking chair in the world. Another of the historical claims of the businesses born in the heat of Route66.
By the way, in this trading post the specialty is popcorn with different sauces and colors but ... They also sell fried grasshoppers. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations has been saying for years that in a hyperpopulated world, eating insects is the most sustainable source of protein for the medium term. You may have to get used to it.
The forces responded to the crunch of a bug, we have a most interesting stop in the Bob's Gasoline Alley (822 Beamer Ln). Here lives Bob Mullen, who has been compiling a tremendous collection of signs, neon signs, advertisements and more than 5000 miniature cars and trucks. Not to be missed.
From here we continue to find more and more places to buy and sell classics in parallel to Ruta66. There are them in a quantity that attests to the health of the classics fans in this part of the United States. Advancing to Springfield - be careful because there are three along Route 66 - we find the Route66 Car Museum (1634 W College St.) Here's the Guy Mace collection. Among its 70 cars we find the Hudson Super Six from the movie The Grapes of Wrath.
Cinephilias aside - the film happens to be one of the best filming of John Ford, adapting the homonymous novel in which it is one of the most emblematic films of American cinema - this vehicle is a symbol. And it is that beyond celluloid Thousands of families, ruined at the time of the Great Depression, took to the road to promising California. A painful exodus with the house in tow that had its main scene on Route 66.
In addition, it also highlights a Horch 853 of 1936 second in the 2014 Peeble Beach Prewar Preservation category. One of approximately 50 units delivered in 1937 to the Nazi government for the mobility of its generals. Oh, and an original 1966 Gotham Roadster from the show's first season with Adam West.
MOVED PIECE BY PIECE: RED OAK II
We continue on Route 66 towards Everton. There we ran into the Gay Parita Sinclair Station (21498 MO-266). Thus, at first, this name sounds like a variety artist in Bastista's Cuba "Tonight at the Copacabana with all of you Gay Parita", but in reality it is an interesting service station. Built in 1931 by Gay and Fred Manson, the flames were primed with it in 1955.
What we see today is a reconstruction of what it was originally, although made in the 50's. For this reason the reconstruction itself is an antiquity in itself. All this tells us about the tourist and symbolic importance that Route 66 already had some 70 years ago. And it is that all this of the travelers crossing the Main Street of America in search of the identity of this country… It is nothing new.
Before heading towards the end of this stage we stop at the Spencer Gast Station (19720 Lawrence 2062, Miller). Another of the service stations that now serve as time capsules. However, if you want to witness one of the biggest attempts to stop the clock on Route 66… You have to stop at Red Oak II (10725 County Loop 122).
At first it looks like a ghost town, but it's actually the creation of the local artist Lowell davis. Lowell is a farmer, wears checked shirts with a neckerchief and smokes a pipe. He is a guy with a serene pose, belonging to that breed of americans with a rocking chair on the porch. He paints in the garden and in front of the fireplace he has placed a model of a carriage drawn by a stuffed hen. Lowell seems to be a good man.
His childhood was spent in the original town of Red Oak. After the Second World War this small agricultural settlement suffered depopulation as a result of the exodus to the cities. So things Lowell decided to get down to work in 1987 with a massive recovery effort. What began as the salvage of rural objects ended up rescuing houses and entire businesses that were moved piece by piece to his farm outside of Carthage.
Warehouses, wooden houses, a church, trucks, agricultural facilities, old American classics ... Everything that spoke of a world that was slowly disappearing was methodically ordered until creating the town of Red Oak II. It is honestly worth seeing for its originality. It is the fruit of a man who decided to go further in conserving Route66.
Tired just thinking about all the work done by Lowell Davis, it's time to put an end to this stage of the route by parking in a motel with all the flavor of Route 66. The Guest House Motel (1207, 417 E Central Ave) from Carthage. In a few days we will continue in The Escudería with this chronicle of Route 66.
