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Buy a classic: dramatic comedy two acts

Act I: The Theory

Buying a used car is always a gamble. Buying a classic is an even bigger one because it tends to be old, and the usual references of mileage, registration date, wear of the seats or pedals and all that are not usually appropriate. Or at least not to the same extent that if we buy a three or four year old, what should we base ourselves on, then, to know if a car is a bargain, is little or much overvalued, or is decidedly a bad buy ?

Of course, before we start we must know what type or class of car we want to buy, and where to look for it. The wrong way to do it is to peck through ads dreaming of the car we would like to have, but if we do it seriously better we decide beforehand what we want, and we fix a list of two or three models before we start. Then, find out everything we can about them by consulting specialized magazines, looking for essays in the press of the time, analyzing technical manuals to know the level of mechanical complexity, etc. Documentation is basic.

Let's not forget the brand clubs. Those in charge of each club probably know more about the model in question that we are looking for than the seller himself, and in general they will be happy to guide us on which is the best year and vintage, which parts are found and which ones are not, etc. Then you have to consult spare parts ads to get an idea of ​​the prices, which will help us to more accurately estimate the cost of a possible restoration if the car we buy needs it.

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Documentation is important

Deciding the car we want, we find one for sale. Let's take a look. If it is a professional seller, we will have the advantage of legal protection as consumers and if we pay a somewhat high price, we will also have a guarantee, even for a short period of time. In auctions there is something of that that can be applied, but as there are so few in Spain we will leave it for another occasion.

In the inspection, you have to take all the necessary time. It should never be done in a rush, at night or in poor visibility conditions. We must be able to see the whole car, examine it from all sides and not leave any corner to chance. If the seller is nervous, in a hurry and compels us to finish quickly, ask for his patience or discard the purchase. Let's take the time to save the dynamic test until it's the only thing left to do. There is a lot of philosophy, because there is also a lot of brown grammar.

Let's start the exam by looking at the car from afar, a few meters away. From there it is easier to see the waters of the paint, a warped sheet, the rock hard lumps, as well as expired springs or a body that is not perfectly straight due to an accident. You have to look for things that are difficult to fix such as a dented radiator, a broken or cracked windshield, etc. Let's look at the shadow changes in the paint that indicate a partial repaint. In open cars you have to see if the doors fall; This may be due to tired hinges, but also the stiffening frames may be corroded. Even if they have been sanitized.

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The ritual begins by observing the machine from afar

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Closer

Now let's take a closer look. Running your hand over the areas susceptible to rust: along the sills, around the headlights, in the wheel arches, under the doors and the front wings. If we notice lumps and waves, there is rock hard instead of sheet metal. We will be lucky if we find a car without any rust, which will mean a higher price. Nipping with the knuckles we will see how far the rocadur goes.

Open and close doors and hoods to see if they fit. Lift the mats to look for corrosion on the floor, bolted plates, and ripples that indicate an accident. Check for drips on the windshield and rear window frame. All of that is hard to see sitting on the seat. Look in the trunk. Any rust holes or bolted plates can be a bad sign if they are too close to the suspension risers.

Before sticking your nose under the hood, Find a blanket and lie on the ground under the car. If the car is too low, ask the owner to lift it up with some jack stands or to put it on a ramp. Never go under if only the cat is holding it, but a kneeling inspection cannot be satisfied. We would stop seeing many things. Bringing a flashlight is not a bad idea.

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You need to examine the bass, but not just bending over

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Look for rust spots on the underbody, brake lines and exhausts, leaking shocks, and any signs of poorly done repairs, especially fiberglass on structural parts. Pay particular attention to spots of rust or lumps of fiber anywhere near suspension, brake, steering, subframe, etc. Since we are below we will take advantage of to rotate the transmission shaft looking for play in the gearbox, universal joints and rear axle. There will be a little bit, but there shouldn't be any loud dry sounds. Don't forget to look at the tires for signs of wear, cracks, and corrosion.

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And motor

We are now in a position to inspect the engine. Pop the hood and start looking for signs of poor maintenance: rusted battery posts, half-empty hydraulic reservoirs, and greasy oil filters. If a dirty engine sports a surprisingly clean cylinder head, ask why it was removed. If the owner says the engine "Has been reviewed" Look for scraps of flashing, notched nuts, and other signs of unprofessional work.

Examine the battery site. Acid corrosion is common, and many times it is covered by the battery itself, so we will lift it and look at the rubber base or similar in its support. Put your hand on the radiator on top while you look for water and antifreeze leaks. It should not show traces of oil or bubble when we accelerate full throttle. If this happens, it may be a symptom of a cylinder head gasket that allows water to pass into the cylinders or oil into the cooling circuit.

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The engine must be carefully examined

Sitting in the driver's seat we'll start the engine and we see if all the lights come on with the ignition on. A very easy way to disguise low oil pressure when there is no pressure gauge is to remove the light bulb from the oil warning light. Similarly, the absence of a light bulb in the power indicator can mask a dynamo or alternator that does not charge.

If there is an oil pressure gauge, check the idle pressure with the engine warm to see if it indicates the same as it should according to the manual. If the pressure gauge doesn't work, be suspicious. One of the oldest tricks is this: "It has never worked since I had it, and I never bothered to fix it because the car is good ..."

Right after starting the engine pay attention to the immediate moment for bearing noises. A sudden loud noise that disappears quickly indicates worn bearings that rattle before the oil pressure rises.

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Don't be fooled with the old manometer trick

The engine should pick up speed smoothly. This is a better test than accelerating it suddenly, because there any hesitation may be due to improperly adjusted spark plugs or carburetor. Throttle to 1.000 rpm, fast idle, and hit the gas while looking for noises and tremors. They could come from the timing chain if they are sharp or from the bearings if they are a rumor. By listening carefully, abnormal noises can be detected from the bench (knocking at full throttle), the connecting rods (continuous pounding when accelerating), and the pistons (metallic noise, especially with a cold engine).

Some vendors have a curious habit of accommodating us in the passenger seat for a quick ride. "Sorry, I can't let you drive it. Do not think that I distrust, is that the insurance only covers the owner driver " Two points: first, if we want to sell a car we will have to let it try, And that implies looking for the legal solution that is to cover the file. "Talk to your insurance agent and when you've solved it call me ... if I still want to try it." Second: the car owner knows how to correct the tendency to go to one side, conceal a slipping clutch, squeaky brakes or a synchro in the last.

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No proof, no purchase

 

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Written by Manuel Garriga

Manuel Garriga (Sabadell, 1963), motor journalist specialized in history, has been in the profession for XNUMX years writing articles and reports for various magazines and newspapers, and working as a correspondent for various foreign media. Author and translator of a dozen books on this subject, he has made collections of fascicles, has worked in radio, cinema and advertising, and has just premiered Operació Impala, his first documentary, as a director. After having directed the magazine Motos de Ayer for almost three years, he returns to write regularly for Motor Clásico, where he began his career, and continues to collaborate in the newspaper El País while preparing new projects in the audiovisual field.

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